Friday, 13 March 2015

Ferreting about in Ferrara

We have been hearing about Ferrara for some time - partly in connection with some renaissance celebrities who were born there - Savonarola (Bonfire of the Vanities), Ariosto (Orlando Furioso) and the Dukes of Este who ruled here.  The infamous renaissance beauty Lucrezia Borgia, who is buried in Ferrara, married one of the dukes in 1502.  Also, Ferrara is in the flatlands of the River Po valley, and, unlike Barga, ideal for cycling  something which appealed greatly.

Finally, we had both read the book and seen the film "The Garden of the Finzi Continis" by Giorgio Bassani - a love story which takes place in the doomed jewish community of Ferrara in World War II.  The film contains many locations recognisable in Ferrara.

All these things made the city seem evocative and interesting.  We stayed in a B&B run by a Ferrara family, who were very enthusiastic and knowledgable about their city.  That, together with the sunny weather and the cycle-friendly streets made our stay memorable.

Palazzo dei Diamente (Diamond Palace).  This Palazzo built in 1493 with its unusual spiky appearance is a distinct landmark in Ferrara
Along with Lucca, Ferrara has ne of the best preserved renaissance walls in Italy.  Unlike Lucca, they are not complete, however there are 9km of cycle and walking tracks on and beside the walls.
Like Parma, prosciutto and salami outlets abound!
The many bikes bring headaches for grumpy residents - the sign reads
"It is forbidden to lean your bike"
The cathedral shines in the floodlights ...
... while the red brick moated castle of the Este family gives an orange glow 
The main Piazza next morning - cathedral and campanile, complete with medieval shopping arcade attached ...
Cycling down the street of the vaults - lovely to look at, a bit knobbly cycling over the medieval cobbles!



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